Simul Bistro in Kolonaki is celebrating nine years of operation, and Its warm, modern space has already undergone several changes, much like its menu, with chef and co-owner Nikos Thomas always at the forefront. Earthy and natural colours dominate the main dining area, with ten cherry wood tables, velvety green chairs and sofas. Instead of paintings, the walls are decorated with two metal installations. The brass light fixtures hanging from the ceiling like water pipes create a relaxing atmosphere, suitable for dining and conversation in a serene setting.
The second, smaller room, which used to have three tables, has recently been changed and now has a single large, monastery-style table for private dinners in front of the kitchen pass, offering a view through the large, low window overlooking the illuminated, lush garden. The restaurant`s wine cellar, overseen by head sommelier (and co-owner), Triantafyllos Louzis, continues to evolve and today includes about 250 labels, mainly from Greek vineyards, along with notable bottles from Italy, Argentina, France, and more. Additionally, it boasts an impressive selection of seven orange wines from Tinos, Kefalonia, Xanthi, Mytilene, and others.
Changes to the menu are clearly evident, as the à la carte selection has now been reduced to 13 dishes, three desserts and a cheese platter, while the tasting menu is featured prominently on the first page of the menu. "Over time, we have decided to discontinue the à la carte option. In previous years, we served 120 covers on weekdays and 150 on weekends. However, the restaurant was not set up to operate this way, so we decided to change direction", explains Chef Nikos Thomas to FNL. This doesn`t mean he`ll be introducing a rigid high-gastronomy menu. Instead, he explains, he will stick to the original idea he had with Alexandra Gasparinatou (his wife and co-owner) for a bistro with technical elements, always prioritising flavour.
Therefore, among his future goals are to eliminate the à la carte option, to expand the tasting menu that is currently in place, to create a smaller menu, and to also introduce a vegetarian option. Additionally, the restaurant is no longer open during lunch hours, except for Saturdays.
The available tasting menu, which I tried, includes eight courses, a pre-dessert, and a dessert. The dishes are exuberant in ingredients, rich in flavour, based on Greek produce, but also feature several Asian "embellishments:, which the chef has a weakness for. The egg, with which the menu began, was excellent. Served in a vessel resembling a cracked egg, it had a crispy, toasted brioche base and a soft, boiled quail egg, while the plate was filled with a foam of grilled potato and leeks, topped with caviar from Iraq. The foam was impressive, as, despite the processing the ingredients had undergone, the potato had retained its earthy flavour and the leek its sweetness, while the taste of the grill was also present.
The beef tenderloin tartare, aged for 60 days and expertly cut for the perfect bite and moisture, was paired with mayonnaise infused with dried skate. The presentation resebled a sandwich, as it was served between two pieces of moist - though unfortunately not at all crispy - waffle, with a smear of nori paste at the base of the plate.
One of the standout dishes was the cauliflower carbonara, reminiscent of a carbonara risotto, with the finely chopped cauliflower florets cooked in a creamy sauce of pecorino and parmesan, egg yolk, crispy guanciale and chilli oil. While visually it appeared to be a simple, creamy preparation, it tasted like a special treat: the more I chewed it, the more umami was released in my mouth. The flavour had such great duration that I ultimately didn`t know when to swallow my bite At the same high level was the fusion grilled lamb double chop with green Thai curry, infused with coriander, lime, lemongrass, lime kaffir leaves. I set aside my savoir vivre, picked up the chop with my hands, and went to town.
The restaurant`s desserts are curated and created by pastry chef George Dedes, and his initial offerings are outstanding. The pre-dessert of mushroom ice cream (porcini and shitake), white chocolate soil, and coffee was a tasty revelation and served exactly its purpose. Meanwhile, the caramelised apple pie without a base, paired with caramel ice cream and tonka bean crème anglaise, had just the right amount of sweetness and was the perfect way to end a tasting menu filled with a variety of intense flavours, all meticulously balanced.
Info: 63 Ypsilantou Street, Kolonaki, tel: 2107224737, price: € 80 for the tasting menu (plus €50 with wine pairing), open daily 6:00 pm—12:00 am, Saturday 2:00 pm—12:00 am.
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