Mercato: Four Seasons Astir Palace’s Italian Comes into its Own with Maggie Tampakaki

I returned to Mercato after some time, not for its unparalleled views – still breathtaking, especially now, as Athens clings to the endless feel of summer and the terrace fills at sunset – but for the food. I wanted to see how Maggie Tampakaki has evolved, whether she has found her stride and if she could finally give the restaurant the identity it has long lacked.

In its early days, the kitchen briefly saw Luca Piscazzi at the helm before he moved on to Pelagos, the restaurant that went on to earn three FNL stars and a Michelin star, establishing itself as a standout on the Athenian dining scene. He was succeeded by Sergio Favata, who introduced an impressive and much-talked-about brunch, but ultimately never managed to give Mercato a clear sense of direction.

Maggie Tampakaki had already proven her talent at Napul’e, but Mercato posed an entirely different challenge. She had to take a restaurant with no clear identity and set it on an upward trajectory – one that balanced the polish of a luxury setting with the sense of warmth and familiarity that a trattoria, by definition, should evoke, even when housed within a Four Seasons. It was no easy task, and it certainly did not happen overnight. It took time, trial and error, and persistence for her to find her rhythm and align her personal vision with the character of the space.

It is also worth remembering something else: Italian cuisine, for all its universal appeal and accessibility, rests on a staggering simplicity. And it is precisely that simplicity which can prove to be the toughest adversary for any chef attempting a more creative interpretation.

The chef now seems to have found that golden balance, and since then Mercato appears to have truly unlocked its potential. The difference between then and now is striking: the first menu she presented a few months ago and what is being served today are almost night and day. At first there was a certain hesitation, a tentative attempt to juggle too many different elements. Now her cooking has a clear direction, with dishes that are more assured, more flavourful, more finely judged — and with the sense that they all belong to a coherent culinary vision.

The Caprese di Pesche is perhaps the clearest expression of Maggie Tampakaki’s vision. Grilled peaches bring sweetness and aromatic intensity, the burrata with its creamy richness envelops the dish, while rocket pesto and prosciutto add balance and depth. The Gamberi Rossi alla Caesar takes the classic salad into new territory: romaine hearts lightly charred to retain their crunch while gaining a subtle smokiness, prawns cooked delicately to a sweet succulence, and a dressing with just the right acidity to brighten the plate without weighing it down. The Tartare di Manzo is the most traditional offering on the menu — pure fillet with confit egg yolk, truffle and Parmesan. It is well-made and deeply satisfying, with a buttery texture and a precise balance of essentials, though the truffle lacked the intensity that might have elevated the dish further. As it stands, the tartare feels more like a respectable execution than a truly memorable experience.

Among the pasta dishes, the Spaghetti alla Nerano with courgette, provolone and basil was one of the highlights of the evening: perfectly al dente, with a sauce that clung silkily to the pasta, and deeply satisfying. The Mille Strati alla Norma lasagne, layered with aubergine, tomato sauce and ricotta, was a beautifully executed rustic dish, winning you over with its generous, hearty flavours. The pizza has improved noticeably compared to the past, though it still falls short of being truly memorable.

Moving to the mains, Tampakaki shows her skill with the Milanese-style cutlet: the meat was juicy and full of flavour, the crust golden and crisp, and the tartare sauce with its accompaniments rounded off a dish that served perfectly well as a finale. Desserts bear the signature of Michalis Chatzikalimeris, who leaves a strong imprint not only on Mercato but across the Four Seasons as a whole.