Koukaki has emerged as one of the most dynamic neighbourhoods on Athens’ restaurant scene. Its culinary stage now hosts a growing number of outward-looking concepts, drawing inspiration from across the globe, from Asia and the Americas to Europe and the Mediterranean. Ristorante di Caravaggio joined their ranks on 15 May this year. The restaurant is the creation of Pavlos Kyriakis, Alexandros Karanasos and Manos Stavroulakis.
The dining room may be small, but it has an impressive sense of scale. Classical and contemporary elements come together harmoniously, creating an atmosphere that feels elegant, grand and welcoming, with a strong character of its own. Floor-to-ceiling windows appear to flow seamlessly down the length of the room, framed by deep green velvet curtains. When drawn back, they allow both the light and the movement of the city to filter into the interior. An imposing chandelier, an antiqued mirror with an intentionally oxidised finish, and artfully distressed walls with decorative plasterwork and modern sconces all draw the eye. The true showstopper, however, is Caravaggio’s Jupiter, Neptune and Pluto, reproduced in striking detail on fabric stretched across the high ceiling. Behind the smoked glass of the mezzanine, the chefs can be glimpsed like shadowy figures, entirely focused on staging a culinary performance of their own.
The culinary picture at this Athens restaurant is framed by the Mediterranean, with the brightest focus falling firmly on Italy. Pavlos Kyriakis has created a menu built around familiar flavours and deeply comforting dishes, yet shaped by refined creativity and accomplished technique. The precision of the cooking reflects both the distinctions he has earned and the experience he has gained in internationally renowned restaurants. Caravaggio is, of course, only in its first month of operation, so there is still room for improvement. That is entirely understandable at this stage, and the restaurant can be expected to become more assured and cohesive as it settles into its stride.
On my first visit to the restaurant, the meal began with handmade focaccia and a light, fluffy maritozzo filled with white-cheese cream and truffle, which brought depth and appealing earthy notes. Next came sea bass carpaccio with lime, yellow cherry tomatoes, passion fruit and coriander, followed by prawns from Koilada with lemon, celery oil and grapefruit. The prawns’ delicate sweetness played beautifully against the grapefruit’s bitterness. In the beef tartare, Parmesan cream and truffle added richness, a creamy texture and enticing woodland aromas. One dish that immediately climbed to the top of my list was a creation I had enjoyed from Kyriakis before, and one for which I would gladly return to Caravaggio: artichoke with celeriac cream, coffee and lemon hollandaise. It is a beautifully balanced combination. The artichoke brings gentle sweetness and a subtly bitter finish, the celeriac cream adds a velvety texture, the coffee contributes an alluring roasted intensity, and the lemon hollandaise cuts through with a precise touch of acidity.
Pasta plays a central role on the menu. The lobster ravioli with bisque, celery and citrus oil brought together buttery richness, delicate sweetness and acidity with considerable finesse. The cacio e pepe, one of Rome’s most celebrated pasta dishes, delivered the characteristic peppery intensity, although it lacked the creamy texture one would expect. For my main course, I tried the sea bass fillet with artichoke cream, peas and beurre blanc. Although the skin did not have the desired crispness, the fish itself was delicious and perfectly cooked within. Among the desserts, the tiramisu immediately catches the eye. Conceived as a meeting of tiramisu and Basque cheesecake, it is an intelligent idea, although the two elements were not yet entirely balanced. The light white-chocolate cream with berries was another appealing option.
The wine list has been created in collaboration with Giorgos Michelis. It currently features around 50 labels from Greece and beyond, with plans to expand to approximately 80. The selection covers a broad range of grape varieties, regions and terroirs. Another advantage is its accessible pricing, which makes it easier to explore more than one bottle.
Information: 32 Odyssea Androutsou Street, Athens
Tel.: +30 210 921 3388
Photography: Anna Tasioula
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