Yes, this summer is different from all the previous ones. It`s as if the universe is conspiring to remind us that the essence of holidays is not to be found in the fashionable, the deejayed and the worldly but is waiting for us, playfully winking at those places that, without shouting and excitement, manage to make time their friend, and remain oases of tranquillity, hospitality and culture.
Just before we left for Leros, the ultimate revelation of this year`s travels, we were allowed to stay three days at the Grand Resort Lagonissi. A hotel that, for some reason, we had taken out of our minds and our agenda, very badly as it turned out, since by the time we left, we were already looking forward to finding the time to return at the first possible opportunity.
But let`s start from the beginning. As soon as you pass the gate and enter the lush gardens of the resort, an actual jungle just a few kilometres from the heart of the city, you realise/remember that this is a piece of the jewel of the Athenian Riviera, a cluster of rooms, bungalows, and villas surrounded by lacy little beaches and crystal blue waters. In the best of terms, it is a paradise of tranquillity and palatial luxury.
I`ve often thought lately how misunderstood the concept of antiquity is in Greece, where everything changes to be modernised and not always for the better, where historic shops give way to their bad replicas, and where, within a decade, hundreds of ornamental buildings were provided in exchange for the horrible apartment buildings of the 1960s.
In all the world`s great cities, the places with history and a past are preserved, honoured and enjoyed from generation to generation. We at this level sadly remain a pile of crap. Our megalomania and petty bourgeoisie are eating us up. And that, perhaps, is the first of the things we need to fix to bring the country the high-quality tourism it deserves.
At the Grand Resort Lagonissi, the guest`s feeling is precisely that. You are returning to a familiar place, where the patina of time colours everything around you with that golden hue of nostalgia that covers any - unavoidable - wear and tear.
We were accommodated in a beautiful villa on the sea where we could have stayed for a month. Comfortable spaces, colossal bed, living room, dining room, even a mini gym in the bathroom we had! But the highlight was the outdoor area with the large swimming pool, the various shady corners, the lounge for reading, the white umbrellas, and the classic aluminium deck chairs with mattresses that are the most comfortable of any wooden ones and quickly moved by anyone - like me - who wants to follow the direction of the sun for the perfect tan. We spent most of our first day there, getting into the perfect holiday mood in DT time.
The next day, after an excellent breakfast buffet in the main building, we swam at the small beach next to Mediteranneo. We enjoyed Mykonos conditions but with just a millimetre of its bustle. Golden sand, clear blue calm waters, service, and silence interrupted only by the sound of canoes passing by occasionally. When we had our fill of sun and diving, we went to the restaurant for fresh fish, fried calamari and salads accompanied by chilled white wine, just what you need to feel like you are on a Cycladic island and not in a bustling city.
More experts than me will write about the resort`s restaurants, although I will tell you that Kohylia, with its idyllic terrace on the water, is a place you could go just to romance. At the same time, Captain`s house, with its equally gorgeous views, pleasantly surprised us. Gastronomically, I`ll mention the club sandwich we ordered the first lunch in the room, which is probably the best I`ve had in Greece. A well-travelled friend says that if you want to know if a hotel`s F&B is good, all you have to do when you arrive is order a club sandwich and a Bloody Mary. I can`t tell you about the cocktail, but the Grand Resort Lagonissi`s club sandwich kicks ass!
Otherwise, if you have the time and inclination, there are on-site spa and gym, communal swimming pool, tennis courts, water sports, hairdressing salon, summer cinema, cigarette and newspaper kiosk, the Hydora boutique with clothes and accessories of excellent Greek brands such as Antonia Karra, Ancient Greek Sandals, Callista, Zeus + Dion, the exciting exhibition A jewel made in Greece with creations of Greek designers curated by Mary Samoli, as well as Danelian Diamonds Club Boutique.
There is also a helipad, conference centre, and dozens of electric club cars to take you from one part of the Resort to another.
Of course, beyond and behind it all is the service. From the front desk to all the restaurants, the beaches, the spa, or wherever you find yourself, you`ll encounter that comforting blend of courtesy and intimacy in perfect proportions that genuinely makes you feel at home.
And all of this happens - let me rewrite this so that I too can absorb it - not on an island, nor in a destination you have to drive for hours to reach, but a few kilometres away from Athens. You think about it, book a room, get in your car, and you`re there!!! You are in paradise, and everyday life is hermetically sealed off.
That`s why, as we were passing the gate for the second time in three days to leave, I checked my mobile phone`s agenda to see when we could return, maybe even for a few more days this time.
We left happy, satiated with peace, sun, and sea, and rested as if we had been on holiday for a fortnight rather than just three days. Three days during which I didn`t open my email, read only a few pages of my book, and hardly even bothered with my social media. I just let myself go, enjoyed the tremendous energy of the place, and dove into the essence of what they call dolce far niente, which, in itself, is a priceless value.
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