Zia, Rome: high-quality gastronomy by Antonio Ziatoni

If someone were to ask me now where to eat in Rome if they only had one night, the first choice that would come to mind without a second thought is Zia, in the colourful and bohemian district of Trastevere. At the same time, there are now several notable restaurants making their mark on the high gastronomy circuit, with Antony Genevose`s legendary Il Pagliaccio and Acquolina at The First Roma Hotel, which won its second star last year, probably sharing the same spot at the top, my experience at Zia this year evoked strong feelings.

Zia comes from the first three letters of Antonio Ziatoni `s surname, and opened in 2018. In 2020, it "hit" its first Michelin Guide star, and its chef-owner won the Best New Chef in Italy award that year. Tasting his dishes at the stylish and minimalist Zia designed by Anton Cristell, I can see why. Although Antonio Ziatoni has yet to enter his forties, he has charted a path in cooking that is ultimately reflected in how he composes his dishes. He is well-travelled, having worked alongside George Blanc and Gordon Ramsey, but he was anointed by the great Antony Genovese at Il Pagliaccio, which is a whole school for Rome, as a whole host of talented cooks have come out of his kitchen.

Zantoni`s dishes have abstract presentations and are centred around two or three very high-quality ingredients primarily sourced from small producers, thus reinforcing the value of localness to the maximum. His technique is classic, delicate and precise. At the same time, how he sometimes enriches the flavours with more exotic elements shows that he has assimilated the performances worldwide through a personal prism of maturity and captures them in his dishes without distancing them from the Italian terroir. Throughout the dinner, what alternated in everything I tasted was dense deliciousness with finesse, as in the stunning baked pastries with toma cheese and a veil of laurel leaves, the silky-textured cappelletti served in chicken broth or risotto with flavourful depth and perfect concentration made with buffalo mozzarella. I`d put this last one in my top twenty dishes of the year so far. When it`s time for desserts, Christian Marasca gives a recital on classic French cuisine recipes. The Tarte Tropezienne, served for two persons, comes to the table whole and cut on the spot, and it`s so wonderful that it could even stand up to a two-star restaurant, and I`m struggling to remember if I`ve had anything better than it, even in Saint Tropez.

The desserts at Zia are a reason to visit, but this restaurant keeps you on your toes until you reach the finale. If the road to Rome takes you there - don`t they say all roads lead there - I`d suggest you put it on your must-do list since you won`t find many restaurants like this one there.

RATING: 8 /10

Info: www.ziarestaurant.com