Seven must-try restaurants in Istanbul

From the narrow streets with street vendors and small open-air shops offering some of the most iconic flavours of Istanbul to the elegant and luxurious restaurants overlooking the Bosphorus, Istanbul`s culinary scene is an impressive blend of tradition and innovation. It is rich, diverse, provocative, and inexhaustible. The tradition of Turkish cuisine is kept alive in various parts of Istanbul, especially on the Asian side. Still, it is worth mentioning that in recent years, there have been leaps and bounds in the field of haute cuisine, with several restaurants interpreting tradition in modern terms and fine dining techniques, while this colourful mosaic is not lacking even the famous international brand names that have taken a proportionate share of the market in a capital city of twenty million inhabitants. In this first part of our travelogue, we focus on seven of Istanbul`s best restaurants worth visiting and enjoying.

Neolokal, Ten years on the top

Neolokal is a case of the few. It opened ten years ago in the Salt Galada cultural complex, setting the bar high for its gastronomy. Bigger-than-life chef Maksut Askar artfully brings traditional recipes to the present day, creating a new naturalistic cuisine that is bursting with finesse and deliciousness, and most of the produce he uses comes from the restaurant`s nearby farm in Gümüşdere. They say so clearly on the first page of their menu: "We are a bridge that connects the old with the new. This is the experience we share with our guests." The other day at Neolokal, I tried a delicious dish with various seasonal vegetables from their garden, and Aksur`s artisanal "manti", accompanied by a video chronicling his inspiration, remains fascinating. The Kerati Gulf`s view from the saloon and the classy terrace is also unparalleled.

Info: Bankalar Avenue, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, 34420 Karaköy tel. +90 212 244 00 16

Pandeli: An iconic restaurant that travels back in time to 1901

Pandeli was opened Pantelis Tsobanoglu in the city`s old fish market, Unkapani, in 1901. Still, while it soon gained great fame during the September 6 and 7, 1955 riots, the restaurant was destroyed, only to reopen in its current location in the Eminonu area of the famous Spice Market. It was the favourite restaurant of Kemal Atatürk. Still, Pandeli enjoyed a golden age from 1964 onwards, when legendary personalities such as Audrey Hepburn, Robert de Niro, Queen Elizabeth II, Melina Mercouri and others visited it. His grandchildren carried Pandeli`s culinary legacy to Athens in 2003, but the restaurant unfortunately closed some years later. At Pandeli, you will taste well-made classic dishes of Turkish urban cuisine at perfectly reasonable prices, from their famous eggplant salad to a delicious doner kebab and simitli, i.e. a skewer with tasty meatballs. For a finale, honour the kourabies made with almond crumbs. They have their own story, too.

Info.Rüstempaşa Mah. Balık Pazarı Kapısı Sokağı Mısırçarşı İçi 1, τηλ. +902125273909

Balıkçı Kahraman. Top turbot in the best fish restaurant

Kahraman Altun`s restaurant has been at the forefront since 1996, making it the top fish-eating spot in Istanbul. Although it`s quite a distance from the city centre, it`s worth making that drive to the Rumeli Kavaği area, which is the last stop before the Bosphorus reaches the Black Sea, to try Kahraman`s unique turbot and a whole host of other excellent fish dishes from Altun`s hands. Order wisely, on the one hand, because the portions are generous, but on the other hand, you`d call it a bit expensive. It`s worth the money, though. At the end, ask for the tea the owner brings from his mountain home to end your exit ceremonially.

Info: Rumeli Kavağı, İskele Cad. No: 15, 34450 Sarıyer tel. 0212 242 64 47

Seraf Vadi: The star of Sinem Özler radiates tradition

The first Seraf in Mahmutbey was born when entrepreneur and passionate fan of good food, Dogan Yildirim, decided to take a long time off from his career in construction companies and go into the restaurant business. In building the restaurant, he even upgraded the whole neighbourhood aesthetically, planting trees to create shade, and from the very beginning, he knew very well the kind of cuisine he wanted to serve: he insisted (and rightly so) on calling it Oriental since the menu at Seraf flourishes with specialities that are not limited to Turkish tradition. Seraf Vadi opened its doors some years later, being, in fact, the evolution of the first restaurant. Its very talented chef, Sinem Özler, has been self-taught since she started her career as a manager at Seraf Mahmutbey, only to accept Dogan Gildirim`s offer to become the restaurant`s chef shortly afterwards. Seraf Vadi is one of Istanbul`s most beautiful and luxurious restaurants, with high-quality service and a cosmopolitan atmosphere. The flavours now cherish the purity of top ingredients and remain classic, but with a subtle touch that makes them even more charming. Be sure to try Icli Köfte`s top-of-range Icli Köfte its delicate lahmajun and exciting halvah.

Info.Ayazağa, Kemerburgaz Caddesi, No:7G, İç Kapı No:7, 34396 Sarıyer τηλ. +902122864646

Gallada: Fusion level by Fatih Tutak at the top of the Peninsula

This terrace of Gallada (presentation photo) doesn`t exist! Or rather, it exists on the fourth floor of the - it doesn`t get more luxurious than this - Peninsula İstanbul with a breathtaking view of the Bosphorus. At Gallada, chef extraordinaire Fatih Tutak, who has brought his eponymous restaurant two Michelin stars, spices up the menu with tasty innovations inspired by Turkish cuisine and the exotic flavours of Asia. More on Gallada is coming soon. Note that here, you`ll find the best service in Istanbul, and at the end of dinner, it`s worth sipping cocktails at the Topside Bar, located on the top floor of the hotel.

Info.Karaköy, Kemankeş Karamustafapaşa Mahallesi, Kemankeş Caddesi No:34, 34425 Beyoğlu τηλ. +902129312888

Fauna: Ibrahim Tuna`s touching flavours are captivated by their deliciousness.

Fauna is in a class of its own. It has twenty-two seats, operates exclusively at lunchtime, and does not serve alcohol. It was never given a license because it is too close to a mosque. But what makes it one of Istanbul`s most talked-about restaurants, where you must have a lot of patience to get a table? Fauna`s chef and owner, Ibrahim Tuna, uses only top-quality ingredients to uniquely combine Italian cuisine with Turkish gastronomy, preparing almost all dishes himself, and some specialities such as his sensational bronchi and the captivatingly delicious lamb shank paste will need to be ordered a few days in advance. Make sure you make your reservation early as the waiting list is long.

Info: Küçükbakkalköy, Işıklar Cad. No: 9 D: B, 34750 Ataşehir tel. 0545 572 11 30

Karaköy Lokantasi: A lively and open-hearted bistro that honours Turkish cuisine

The atmosphere at the popular Karaköy Lokantasi is reminiscent of a chic bistro in the metropolitan capital. Still, the dishes bring to life classic oriental specialities, such as their famous hounkiar. From the window, you choose the appetisers that will open the curtain on your meal and then complete the menu with one of the lady dishes, some of which are rotated frequently. I also found their wine list to be remarkable. Give it a look!

Info: Kemankes Caddesi 37/A, Kadiköy, Istanbul, 34425 τηλ. +90 212 292 44 55