There are countless white grape varieties in the world. And then there is Chenin Blanc. A grape of extraordinary potential which, when grown in the singular terroirs of the central Loire, yields dry and sweet wines of formidable complexity and genuine world-class stature.
Curiously, Chenin Blanc remains relatively under the radar. Yet those wine lovers who encounter it are often left astonished, not only by the sheer quality it delivers, but also by its remarkable value for money. Whether one is speaking of a €15 bottle or a €100 benchmark cuvée, the ratio of price to pleasure can be nothing short of astonishing.
Domaine des Forges is one of those producers that, for the past 135 years, has consistently and tangibly confirmed all of the above. The estate was founded in 1890, when Pierre Robineau purchased 20 hectares in the heart of Anjou and named the venture after one of its vineyard parcels, Clos des Forges.
Today, Stéphane and Séverine Branchereau, representatives of the fifth generation, continue not only to craft outstanding wines but also to farm their 47 hectares with the utmost respect for the environment. Since 2019, this commitment has been recognised with the highest level of Haute Valeur Environnementale certification, HVE Level 3.
Across the wider region, Chenin Blanc truly comes into its own, producing whites at every level of sweetness from vineyard sites whose internal hierarchy of appellations and renowned lieux-dits loosely echoes the Burgundian model. Unlike Burgundy, however, which is exclusively dry, the Loire’s unique microclimate tells a different story. The influence of the great river and its tributaries, particularly in areas such as the Layon, encourages the development of Botrytis cinerea, making possible some of the most profound sweet wines in the world.
When tasting Chenin Blanc, there is no gentle introduction. Even the (theoretically) most modest cuvée, Anjou L’Audace 2024 (8.5/10), is a wine many producers around the world could only aspire to. Aged for 11 months in 400-litre barrels, it has not yet fully unfurled its aromatic complexity. Yet its remarkable concentration, impressive length and that distinctive sweet-edged dryness, born of ripe fruit balanced by vibrant acidity, suggest ageing potential of at least five years.
Loire devotees shiver, in the best possible way, at the mere mention of Savennières. This small appellation in the Anjou sector of the Loire Valley is responsible for some of the finest dry Chenin Blancs in the world. Domaine des Forges’ Savennières Clos du Papillon 2024 (8.5/10) undergoes a similar élevage regime, yet the grapes are partially affected by noble rot, contributing additional texture and ripeness. Even so, Clos du Papillon demands patience. It will need at least seven to ten years to shed its current austere minerality and fully spread its wings.
The Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin 2024 (9/10) reveals the highest virtues of this celebrated sweet-wine enclave. The fruit, sourced from 40-year-old vines in the commune of Saint-Aubin, is harvested at very high ripeness levels, and the subtle mushroom-like nuances leave no doubt about the influence of botrytis. Noble rot, together with a faint iodine note, lays the groundwork for remarkable persistence on the palate, while vibrant acidity brings impeccable balance to its 85 grams per litre of residual sugar. The truly moving moments, however, will come after a decade in bottle.
You find yourself wondering whether a sweet wine could possibly surpass this, and then you taste the Coteaux du Layon 1er Cru Chaume 2022 (9.5/10).
The estate owns 6.5 hectares in this geologically intricate enclave, elevated to 1er Cru status in 2011. Yields are legally capped at 25 hl/ha, and successive selective harvests, or tries, ensure that only perfectly botrytised berries are brought to the press. The extraordinary concentration and dominance of noble rot therefore come as no surprise. What does astonish, however, is the wine’s seemingly endless length, its electrifying acidity, which renders 125 grams per litre of residual sugar almost weightless, and the distinctive saline edge that carries the finish far beyond expectation.
A perfect score is awarded no more than two or three times a year. Yet Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru 2022 (10/10) compelled me to “spend” the first one within the opening weeks. Renowned since the Middle Ages, this exceptional 42-hectare vineyard, shared among roughly twenty growers, is widely regarded as the holy grail of Loire sweet wines. Multiple successive tries, harvesting only berries fully affected by noble rot, make the official maximum yield of 17 hl/ha seem almost theoretical. The resulting concentration and length are simply beyond easy description. What unfolds in the glass is an explosion of candied lemon peel, kumquat, honey and that unmistakable botrytis-derived mushroom nuance. A sweet-and-sour masterpiece of staggering precision and depth, it forces you to reconsider how you perceive and judge great sweet wines.
The Loire and Chenin Blanc require little analysis. One sip, whether dry or sweet, from a truly great producer is enough to make you fall in love with this singular terroir and this remarkable grape. Domaine des Forges is unquestionably one of them.
The wines of Domaine des Forges are available in Greece through VeriTable (+30 211 1829109).
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