Ultimately, I don`t believe its significance is that great. Mainly because it remains one of the few objects that has been `worn` and deeply engaged with by people for the past two centuries.
In this Story of Perfection, we will focus on one of watchmaking’s `Holy Trinity` brands—Audemars Piguet, which celebrates its 150th anniversary this year. It’s worth remembering that the other two members of this prestigious `Holy Trinity` are Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. A journey marked by inventions, brilliant complications, crises, upheavals, perseverance, resilience, growth, and stagnation: Audemars Piguet’s history could be described as tumultuous and far from a smooth sailing route.
Audemars Piguet made its debut in 1875, founded by two friends, Edward Auguste Piguet (born 1853) and Jules Louis Audemars (born 1851), in the small village of Le Brassus in the Joux Valley. Imagine a tiny valley at an altitude of 1,000 metres in the Swiss Jura mountains, just a breath away from France, surrounded by vast forests of fir trees. This is where the valley received its name: Vallée de Joux, or the “Valley of the Forest”. In Le Brassus and neighbouring villages, most homes and farms at that time featured small watchmaking workshops beneath their roofs. Some of these workshops produced springs, gears, gong mechanisms, or hammer strikes, while others cut small stones.
This tradition among the inhabitants began in the late 1700s as a way to supplement their income, which was primarily derived from livestock farming. The harsh winters provided ideal conditions for engaging in watchmaking. This network of family artisans, known as établissage, laid the foundation of the modern watchmaking industry. Établistes were watchmakers who coordinated the work of neighbours, cousins, and friends. Under this system, they acquired components, decorated, adjusted, and assembled them to create intricate timepieces.
Notably, Edward Dent, the clockmaker behind the Westminster clock (commonly known as Big Ben), purchased components from this very valley!
Audemars and Piguet did not start with modest, conservative designs. No, they immediately set out to create complex pocket watches. Within their first year, they offered models featuring perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. Notably, one of their pocket watches received praise at the Paris Exhibition of 1889. By that time, the two watchmakers had firmly established their reputation as makers of exquisite pocket watches. Together, driven by an irresistible desire, they sought to push the boundaries of perfection beyond the ordinary.
Although wristwatches had existed since the 16th century, it was only in the 1910s and 1920s that they became an essential element of modern life. For watchmakers, creating a wristwatch posed several significant challenges. First, the miniaturisation of the movement. Second, ensuring durability against shocks, as the watch was now much more exposed on the wrist than in the pocket. Finally, there was the issue of securing the strap or bracelet itself.
Audemars Piguet played a groundbreaking role in the evolution of wristwatches, particularly in the development of complex mechanisms. In 1892, the brand collaborated with Louis Brandt & Frère (the predecessor of Omega) to produce one of the earliest wristwatches equipped with a minute repeater, followed by the creation of several miniature timepieces featuring striking functions. The advent of wristwatches with integrated calendars occurred in the 1920s, with chronographs making their first appearance in the following decade.
In horology, miniaturising intricate mechanical movements is an extraordinarily challenging craft—an achievement comparable to scaling the highest and most inaccessible peaks. The archives of Audemars Piguet document exceptionally compact calibres dating back to the 19th century. This mastery of micro-engineering was further refined in the creation of luxury women’s watches.
Following the turbulent period of the First World War, the leadership of the firm was assumed by the founders’ two sons. The ensuing decades marked a period of prosperity through the 1920s, only to be disrupted by the Great Depression of 1929–1932 and the devastations of the Second World War, which imposed significant difficulties upon the brand.
In 1945, a wave of renewed optimism and innovation swept across the world. In the aftermath of wartime destruction, a comprehensive process of reconstruction, re-evaluation, and technological reinvention was set in motion. Swiss horology experienced exponential growth—from approximately 12 million watches exported in 1945 to over 80 million by 1974. During this era, Audemars Piguet remained a small but highly specialised atelier, employing around 85 skilled artisans and producing approximately 5,500 watches annually in the early 1970s.
As is well known among collectors, the movements of Audemars Piguet watches from 1951 onward were no longer fitted within the same number of cases as in previous years. This detail signified a profound shift in the brand`s approach. This mini-revolution did not mark the beginning of large-scale industrial manufacturing; rather, the transition was exceedingly gradual. By the 1990s, only 23 models had been produced in series of over 100 units. The first watch to be produced in quantities exceeding 1,000 units was the Royal Oak 5402, introduced in 1972.
Between 1974 and 1984, during the so-called "Quartz Crisis," over 1,000 Swiss watchmaking companies went bankrupt. The industry lost approximately three-quarters of its employment. Exports plummeted from 84 million watches in 1974 to just 30 million a decade later. However, some high-end manufacturers survived, thanks to the enduring value and prestige associated with mechanical watches—which electronic alternatives could not erode. Audemars Piguet continued to grow despite these adverse conditions.
Three key figures played pivotal roles in this success. The general manager, George Golay; Michel Rochat, famously known as "le Mic," who developed an exceptionally thin automatic perpetual calendar movement, the Calibre 2120/2800. This was the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar movement in the world at the time. And, of course, Gérald Genta, who in 1972 designed the Royal Oak in a single night—a model that marked a turning point not only in the history of Audemars Piguet but also in Swiss horology as a whole.
The Royal Oak, conceived as a response to demand from the Italian, French, and Swiss markets, was the first watch in horological history to elevate steel to a luxury material. It also pioneered a design that seamlessly blended elegance with sportiness, sophistication with casual chic, tradition with innovation—an audacious combination that challenged conventions and reshaped the industry’s landscape.
Complexity lies at the very core of Audemars Piguet’s DNA and its rich history in Vallée de Joux. Since its inception, the brand has been synonymous with the creation of highly intricate timepieces, specialising in perpetual calendars, chronographs, and other horological complications. Audemars Piguet watches are renowned for their timeless excellence, meticulously crafted using the finest materials and cutting-edge technical innovations. The incorporation of precious metals such as 18-carat gold and platinum ensures not only exceptional durability but also enduring brilliance. Every model from Audemars Piguet tells a compelling story and embodies a rich heritage of craftsmanship and innovation.
Their premium price is justified by impeccable craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail. Acquiring an Audemars Piguet timepiece signifies owning a masterpiece of watchmaking artistry—an object to be cherished and admired for generations to come, serving as a symbol of refined taste and enduring heritage. Because, beyond monetary value, purchasing a luxury watch requires knowledge and discernment, embodying sophistication and an appreciation for fine horology.
Login or register to join the conversation