Ten comfort soups and where to enjoy them.

November 19, 2024
Giannis Devetzoglou
Greek, Chinese, French, Thai, Japanese—whether from grandma or the chef, it doesn`t matter. Hot soups are in the spotlight this season, so Yannis Devetzoglou has selected his top ten.
  • TEN COMFORT SOUPS AND WHERE TO ENJOY THEM. | Articles & Know-how

Soups are among the most beloved and versatile dishes worldwide, offering a wide variety of flavors, textures, and ingredients. The taste of a soup depends largely on its key components. There are vegetable soups, which are nourishing and light; meat-based soups such as traditional magiritsa or beef soup; and fish soups, ideal for those who prefer more delicate flavors. Globally, we encounter iconic soups like the French soupe à l`oignon, Thai tom yum, and Japanese miso soup. Soups are flexible; they can be adapted to the season and dietary needs, making them a warm, delicious choice, especially on cold winter days.

At "Costas of Kifissia" for meat soup

Beef meat soup, the secrets of which are revealed by the chef of  restaurant "Costas of Kifissia", hinges on simplicity, high-quality ingredients and tortugita, the cut of beef used for preparation. The Tortugita, derived from the Spanish word for "small tortule", refers to the muscle located at the back of the thigh in the hindquarters. When braised, it proves to be a very tender piece, rich in collagen, and containg less gelatin than the front mouse; however, it is also quite flavourful, making it suitable for lean stews. At this restaurant, they sauté the beef and then simmer it for two hours along with carrots, potatoes, celery, salt, and pepper. It is served in large portions filled with plenty of pieces of meat.

375 Eleon, Kifissia, tel: 2108075375.


At Hasapika Central Market for fish soup.

Although it is uncommon to make such soup at home, what characterises this fish soup is the feeling of "homey warmth". The fish soup at Hasapika is made daily with a variety of fresh fish and vegetables; it is rich, warm and deliciously combines the freshness of seafood with the sweetness and tenderness of vegetables, including carrots, celery, onions, and potatoes. Fresh herbs such as parsley and celery and a little lemon enhance its freshness and aromatic profile.

Aristogitonos 1, Varvakios, tel: 2160707026.


At Tuk Tuk for Tom Yum

Its broth falls into the "dilute" category, while its body and flavour intensity rank high. In Greek, it would be called "shrimp soup" since its base is shrimp, but its taste is multi-dimensional and nothing like a bisque. At Tuk Tuk, the traditional Thai Tom Yum soup is served in a double portion and is quite spicy and slightly sour. The clean flavours come from lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and fresh coriander, while umami is provided by the fish sauce. The soup contains shrimp, a variety of mushrooms, and chili peppers. A touch of  coconut milk adds a smooth, creamy contrast to the spicy flavour of the broth.

40 Veikou Street, Koukaki, tel: 2114051947.


In Hanoi for Pho

This is the most famous Vietnamese soup, and we tried an excellent version in Hanoi. Pho (pronounced "fa") soup has a multidimensional and rich flavour. Its main broth is made from chicken and contains small amounts of anise, cardamom, and cloves. The flavour is slightly sweet from the caramelised onions and ginger, which balance the spices. Fresh herbs like coriander, basil, and lime add freshness. Thinly sliced chicken and a handful of vermicelli noodles complete the soup served in Hanoi.

12 Petraki Street, Syntagma, tel: 2130451379.


At FITA for Larissa`s chicken soup

Larissa chicken soup with a twist is served this season at FITA. Chef Dimitris Dimitriadis prepares it by boiling chicken bones. After draining and clarifying the first broth, he boils the rooster in it, flavouring it with celery, a cinnamon stick, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Once well-cooked, he strains the broth again, skins the rooster in thick pieces and adds a generous amount of strained yoghurt. The pieces of rooster are sautéed in butter until crispy and then mixed back into the broth. Then comes the big flavour surprise with the addition of chanterelles and fresh mint at the finish. The soup is almost velouté in texture and has a hint of the Orient.

1 Durm 1 and 6 Kasomouli, Neos Kosmos. Tel: 2114148624.


At Feirouz for mahlouta

The traditional Arabic mahlouta soup has a rich, earthy flavour and intense body. It is made from a variety of lentils and other grains or legumes. Its name means `blended`, which refers to the combination of ingredients. Fairouz serves it in a paper cup, from which it is consumed without a spoon. In addition to red lentils as the base, it contains fennel, carrots, handmade chicken stock, and freshly roasted wild ginger.

23 Karori Street and 1 Agathonos Street, Athens, Tel: 2130318060.


Attic Moon for Chinese hot and sour soup

The classic Chinese hot and sour soup offers a unique texture, slightly thickened with cornstarch. True to its name, it combines heat from chili with a tangy sourness from vinegar. Attic Moon enriches its version with a medley of vegetables, mushrooms, tofu, and beef, making it an ideal choice for those who appreciate intense and multi-dimensional flavours.

10 Xenophontos Street, Syntagma, tel: 2103227095.


Tanpopo for ramen

Among the four types of ramen served at Tanpopo by chef Sotiris Kontizas, I chose the one with the most flavourful broth, Tonkotsu, which I arbitrarily classify as a soup. The broth is made from three different types of pork bones, which are caramelised in the oven and then simmered for 26 hours. All the fat is rendered, creating a rich texture that is both visible on the surface of the soup and evident in taste. Next, plenty of handmade fresh noodles are added, along with thinly sliced pork belly, a soft-boiled egg, kikurage (tree mushrooms), bamboo shoots and onions. It is a hearty and delicious meal.

1 Aristeidou, 2 Evripidou, Athens, tel: 2107000252


At Spiros & Vasilis for onion soup

The classic French onion soup (soupe a l`oignon) is made with a meat broth and onions. At Spiros & Vasilis, it is rich in flavour, both sweet and savoury, thanks to the properly caramelised onions and concentrated broth, enhanced by the creamy texture of melted cheese. This ultimate French comfort soup is served in an elegant dish with a slice of toasted bread topped with a cheese crust 

10 Lachitos Street, Kolonaki, tel: 2107237575.


Jerry`s for pumpkin soup.

It may be in season and not often found in restaurants, but sweet pumpkin makes one of the best velouté soups. At Jerry`s, it`s made with coconut cream and has a sweet and savoury flavour, with a perfectly velvety texture. It is served with a bruschetta topped with avocado, pumpkin seeds, and herbs.

Eth. 27, Amύνης Street, Papagou, tel: 2106538084.

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