Atelier Papaioannou: A Promising New Start in Neo Psychiko

When Atelier Papaioannou was still located in the Stoa Spyromiliou, I wrote in a previous review: “I can only hope that the ambitious Atelier Papaioannou, in my view the most compelling and interesting opening within the arcade, will find its antidote and take root.” In a passageway that, like shifting sand, seemed to swallow almost every concept that passed through it, not even a name as enduring as Papaioannou’s ultimately withstood the challenge.

Fortunately, S-One Hospitality and Giorgos Papaioannou kept Atelier alive and granted it a second chance. Just before Christmas, they relocated it to the space previously occupied by Maison Colette, which is moving to Kifissia, in Neo Psychiko, a move that has already proven to be a masterstroke for three reasons.

The first reason is obvious: it would have been a genuine loss for a restaurant with such a clear identity, consistency, and substance to close in such an undignified manner. Neo Psychiko, moreover, was lacking a leading seafood name, one with depth and longevity, capable of serving as a steady point of reference.

The third reason lies in the very nature of Atelier Papaioannou itself. It is one of those restaurants that evolves through continual refinement and deeper engagement with its own gastronomic philosophy. Its identity is built on a profound understanding of the raw material, a steady and respectful relationship with the product, and accumulated experience that translates into precision and substance on the plate. Arcade dining spaces operate according to a different logic, one that is often more transient and fleeting.

As you step inside, you immediately recognise that familiar Papaioannou atmosphere. The front and rear dining rooms, along with the bar area, have been shaped with the same understated, refined aesthetic long associated with the name: clean lines, warm materials and flattering lighting that instantly puts you at ease.

Upstairs, a separate room with a large dining table and adjoining lounge is ideal for private dinners and events. With a particularly accessible pricing structure for this level of restaurant, it is a space you can easily imagine returning to, whether for a business lunch or a more personal celebration.

Let us turn to the food. Atelier Papaioannou represents the most culinary, most crafted and most bistro-driven expression of the classic Papaioannou school. Here, fish remains the undisputed protagonist, yet it is allowed to pass through a creative lens.

Konstantinos Pappas, who has worked alongside Giorgos Papaioannou since a young age, presents a more mature and personal interpretation of this cuisine, placing greater emphasis on technique, sauces, temperature and texture, and the kind of detail that elevates a dish beyond the obvious.

Overall, the kitchen is already operating at a very high level, despite the restaurant having been in its new home for just over a month. Most dishes clearly demonstrate their potential and suggest a trajectory firmly on the rise.

The fish soup remains a benchmark and is easily one of the most substantial and carefully executed versions currently available in Athens, in itself reason enough to visit. Equally impressive is the bonito, delicately handled and paired with tomato, capers and oregano, a dish that balances freshness with depth. The linguini with red shrimps, Ossetra caviar and tomato stands out for its intensity and clarity of flavour, while maintaining admirable balance. The steamed sole bianco with capers and lemon is another of the menu’s strong points, showcasing the restraint and precision that define the Papaioannou approach.

There are, however, dishes that would benefit from a little more time to settle fully into their stride. The paccheri with rockfish kakavia arrived perfectly al dente, yet the richly flavoured sauce would benefit from tighter integration with the pasta, allowing the dish to achieve greater overall cohesion.

The dessert programme is currently in a transitional phase and will be fully refreshed within the next month under the direction of the excellent Dimitris Chronopoulos. For that reason, I have not factored them into the overall assessment, although the ones I sampled were genuinely good and technically light.

Atelier Papaioannou in Neo Psychiko opens its new chapter with a very strong rating and the distinct impression that the next step up the scale is a matter of months, not years. After all, we are speaking of a team with a proven track record of reaching the top.