In a city where gastronomic pluralism and extroversion are now well established, the charm of the Greek tavern remains strong. As a result, these establishments continue to enrich the culinary landscape of Athens, contributing to the capital`s representation of traditional Greek cuisine in recent years.
One such recent project, which brings us "around the Greek table", as its founders emphasise, is Cinapos, created by the team of George Melissaris, Panos Politis, Yannis Morakis, Thomas Grubac and Panos Ioannidis. The "table" at Cinapos is set daily within the magnificent neoclassical building dating back to 1845. During its lifetime, this building has been a royal stable, a prison, and an elementary school. In the 1990s, it debuted in the restaurant scene, hosting first Stavlos and later Coyoacan.
Today, fully renovated, this historic building retains its original stone walls and wooden beams, evoking a sense of its storied past. The Greek-inspired design that covers the bar wall is the creation of Anna Mendogiannis, while the olive tree at the centre of Cinapos transports the guests to a courtyard from another era. Here, the well-known chef Panos Ioannidis, draws upon land and sea`s finest ingredients to present a menu that celebrates traditional Greek flavours and dishes inspired by Asia Minor—an homage to the culinary heritage passed down by his Constantinopolitan grandmothers. At his side stands head chef Dora Sakayanni, with whom he has previously collaborated. Together, they have formed a strong team, and within just a month of opening, Cinapos has already begun to showcase well-crafted dishes that balance exquisite flavours and delightful textures.
As a pie lover, I tried the leak pie and loved both its delicate filling and pastry. The smoked pepper salad intrigued me, and while it had a wonderful zing from the garlic, toasted walnut and lemon zest, I found the pomegranate molasses made it a touch sweeter than I preferred. In the eggplant salad, I missed the salt a bit but I liked the smokiness and texture it offered. The meatballs were nicely fried and paired wonderfully with the yoghurt, tomato, lachmatzun and herb sauce. The steamed mussels, accompanied by couscous, tarragon, cherry tomatoes, ouzo and wine, were excellent - full of spirit and dipped in a spicy sauce that I found delightful. The lamb chops smelled fragrant from the grilling, were properly cut and had a nice crispy fat, while the roast lamb in the with baked potatoes was nicely honeyed. At Cinapos, on weekends and several days of the week, daytime dishes make an appearance, such as the sizzling zyguri (baby goat) served with fries. The dish was particularly succulent with a thick, slightly acidic salsa that absorbed aromatic notes from parsley, dill and mint, pairing sinfully with the potatoes. "We decide on the dishes of the day depending on the raw materials we find," Dora Sakagianni shared with me, adding that the kitchen follows seasonality, always relying on fresh produce.
Finally, I singled out the fluffy and perfectly syrupy orange pie, as well as the frozen yoghurt topped with spoon-sweet. The wine list pays homage to the Greek vineyard, with a selection of beers and spirits, with many of them aged. In addition to dinner served throughout the week, Cinapos is also open for lunch on Fridays and weekends.
Info. Iraklidon 10, Thision, Tel. 210 7103 030
*Photos: Anna Tasioula
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