Field Jacket: From the Military to Protests and Fashion Runways

There aren`t many other garments that can boast of consistently returning to men`s fashion—and beyond—throughout the decades. At the same time, they have served as a source of inspiration for countless derivatives that follow the trend cycles presented on the runways, without the original ever losing its intrinsic value, even among the staunchest supporters of classic menswear. The field jacket was originally designed as a military garment, particularly functional with its four front pockets. While it was created for war, it eventually transformed into a symbol of the movement fighting for peace.

There aren`t many other garments that can boast of consistently returning to men`s fashion—and beyond—over the decades. At the same time, they have inspired countless derivatives that follow the cycles of trends presented on the catwalks, without the original ever losing its value, even among passionate fans of classic menswear. The Field Jacket was designed as a military garment, highly functional with its four front pockets. While it was made for war, it eventually became a symbol of the movement fighting for peace, both on the streets and in living rooms.

Beyond its recognition as part of the symbols of peace, the military jacket has woven itself into the wardrobes of people from all walks of life. It has found a place in the windows of vintage shops, on the racks of thrift stores, adorned with various decorations, and has graced the runways of famous fashion houses. It has even been whimsically painted by students with markers. Overall, we can say that its timeless presence and appeal are as enduring as that of blue jeans, with which it even pairs famously.

The Field Jacket was born during World War II due to a shortage of wool. The first model, known as the M-41, was introduced into military clothing to replace the wool coats used in World War I. Its design drew inspiration from civilian windproof jackets of the time, but the M-41 featured a higher insulating capacity thanks to its cotton poplin and wool flannel lining.

However, the olive-green military jacket was soon deemed a failure for various reasons. The green color faded quickly, diminishing its camouflage effectiveness, and the protection it provided from rain, cold, and wind was not as significant as anticipated. Following the M-41, many improvements were made to address the shortcomings of the original model, but no subsequent revisions succeeded in adequately "warming up" soldiers.

With the advent of the Korean War, the longer M-51 emerged as one of the many successors to the original model. It included several convenient features such as a removable inner liner, waist-cinching cord, hood, and a highly water-repellent fabric surface. In 1965, Alpha Industries, known for creating the iconic MA-1 bomber jacket, introduced the M-65 Field Jacket. A key innovation was the use of nylon and cotton sateen fabric, dubbed "NYCO," which significantly enhanced the jacket`s weather resistance.

The Vietnam War became arguably the most controversial conflict in modern history, sparking a widespread counter-movement across the United States and much of Europe. Millions took to the streets to protest a war they viewed as futile and destructive—an attempt at expansionism and suppression of political pluralism. Upon returning, veterans found a divided country with no sense of celebration or pride, overshadowed by cynicism and anger. The military clothing they brought back was repurposed for their political activism.

Among all military garments, the Field Jacket emerged as a powerful symbol, embodying both function and protest. It was adopted by notable figures during anti-war demonstrations, major festivals like Woodstock, and political protests at Madison Square Garden. John Lennon and Jane Fonda wore it at their protests, while Lt. John Kerry—who would later run for president—also donned the jacket upon returning from war, using it to underscore his commitment to opposing U.S. war policy.

Soon, the Field Jacket was transformed into a potent statement of political resistance and became a sartorial symbol for all those fighting against oppression. Its presence in society was so pervasive that it was worn by rebellious youth, students, rock musicians, the impoverished, workers, and fashion students who often creatively customized it.

In popular culture, it was featured as a protective shell for the troubled character, played by Robert De Niro, in the 1976 film "Taxi Driver." It also appeared on Sylvester Stallone in "Rambo," as well as in Woody Allen`s "Annie Hall" and Al Pacino in "Serpico." The jacket also made an appearance on Schwarzenegger in "The Terminator," where it became a symbol of resilience and strength.

Political conflicts and protests for equality and freedom have faded in our time. The reinterpretation of symbols from the past through fashion, for example, has resulted in hundreds of derivatives of original designs, including trench coats, flight jackets, military jackets, and other garments with similar characteristics. Designers, even those one might not expect, have incorporated these elements into their collections, such as Yves Saint Laurent, who, in 1968, showcased a blend of the safari style and field jacket in both his men’s and women’s lines, causing a significant sensation among his audience. Helmut Newton even captured the renowned couturier wearing it alongside his muses Betty Catroux and Loulou de la Falaise at the opening of a store in London.

Today, you can find various versions of the military jacket, whether at a military clothing store or a thrift shop, where you might discover an authentic piece. In modern fashion, be aware that a baggy military jacket can even be paired with a classic suit. Overall, remember that our times favour and seek to highlight personal taste, from the way we dress to our home decor.