Willem Hiele: A Viking Who Cooks the Sea

Once, they asked my mother," Willem Hiele recounts on a chilly morning in Ostend as we headed out to shop at the market. "Where is your son? And she replied, `Wherever the wind is, you will find him!`" Very poetic, I thought, but also quite fitting. Willem Hiele is a unique chef—unlike anyone else. He has pursued a completely personal and somewhat solitary path in cooking, taking on all the risks that come with the decision to be independent, unconventional, and free, while also being restlessly creative. "It’s not easy to follow nature, but once you do it and feel the rewards it brings you, there’s no turning back. Do you respect it? It will respect you. Ignore it? It will ignore you." For the Flemish chef Willem Hiele, these are not just words. This is where a journey begins—one that, if you allow it to take you along, will lead you on a more introspective exploration.

Our journey into the world of Willem Hiele began a day earlier in Koksijde, in an old house dating back to 1832, where the chef`s grandfather, a fisherman of the time, kept alive a unique horse fishing tradition. Yes, you heard that right—fishing with horses. There we met Stefaan Hancke, who continues this age-old practice of shrimp fishing using horses. He is one of just fourteen who still pursue this profession. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, dusk was settling in, and the weather was so wild that we didn’t get to see him in action. However, we did try the day’s catch of grey shrimp, and I must admit I can still taste them in my mouth. Afterwards, we made our way to Willem Hiele’s old restaurant, just a few steps away, which now opens only for special occasions. He put a record on the turntable, opened a bottle of champagne, and cooked us something resembling a bouillabaisse using those shrimp. It was magical—unforgettable. When the restaurant was still operating, reservations for that dish would flood in. It became a signature dish. However, he now only serves it there and not at his new restaurant, as a tribute to this place. “This soup belongs here,” he tells me. And he`s likely right.

Experiencing all of this made my curiosity for Willem Hiele`s new restaurant soar. It is set on an eight-acre site just a few kilometres from Ostend, in a stunning building from 1971, designed by the Belgian artist and architect Jacques Moeschal, located in the countryside of Grote Keignaert. There are also eight charming rooms available for an overnight stay at reasonable prices. Wherever you look, you see nature’s unmatched beauty. Within the heart of this serene ecosystem, Willem has ensured he has everything he needs to cook. He thinks like an artist, brimming with energy as he watches the fire—or rather, the fires—of the open kitchen. The sea takes centre stage on the menu, which changes daily, so I’m unsure how meaningful it is to list specific dishes. I noted a variety of flavours, although one dish completely captivated me: a mosaic of processed vegetables and fruits in various forms, resembling charcuterie, inspired by a painting by Chaïm Soutine. It is his signature dish. You quickly realise you are dealing with a truly exceptional chef. The technique he uses for cooking seafood is incredibly appealing. He allows the fire to gently caress them, allowing you to taste all their juices. It’s both brutal and refined, this style of cooking. Occasionally, there’s some meat on the menu. We tried a surf and turf with duck and cod at the beginning of the meal, which was delightful. In the end, once again, his memories take centre stage. Waffles? Yes, waffles. It’s how he grew up. And he continues to grow. Beautifully. Very beautifully.

Rating: 8.5/10

Info: Info: Kapittelstraat 71 - Oudenburg, Belgium, tel. +32 (0)58 596221, https://restaurant.willemhiele.be/en