Novus: The New from the Old…

Few families can boast a connection to Arcadia and Moschofilero as close as the Nassiakos family. The grandfather began producing and selling wine there in the 1950s. The father not only focused on Moschofilero but was also the one who bottled the first PDO Mantinia for the late Konstantinos Antonopoulos in 1983. For nearly 30 years, Leonidas Nassiakos has immersed himself in this variety (and many others) while working at the Nemea cooperative and Semeli, two of the largest wineries in the Peloponnese.

During his 18-year tenure there, he merged the family winery with the giant, with Nassiakos Mantinia not only becoming part of Semeli`s collection but also one of its most esteemed members.

However, in 2020, the time for something... Novus had arrived, and it was only natural that Mantinia and Moschofilero would serve as cornerstones of this new venture. This initiative is based in the new winery located on the old national road from Tripoli to Argos and sources grapes from the family-owned vineyard as well as from collaborating grape growers in Nemea and Aigialeia—two regions that the highly skilled chemist-winemaker knows like the back of his hand.

Novus already boasts 4 labels and 6 releases, with tasting them all serving as a delightful amuse-bouche for the high-calibre menu that Leonidas Nassiakos aims to offer.

Naturally, the cornerstone of the collection had to be a PDO Mantinia, with the A Priori sourced from Zevgolatio vineyards that are up to 40 years old. The A Priori 2023 (7/10) is light and unmistakably typical, featuring aromas of rose and lemon while also showcasing the clarity for which its producer is known. Its palate is refreshingly balanced, with notes of white pepper and wet wool. However, it comes from a vintage in which all the white wines in the country struggled, resulting in it being less impressive than last year, when I first tasted it. On the other hand, the 2024 (7.5/10) appears to be infused with more fruit, adding greater intensity to the beautiful bouquet of rose, lemon verbena, and mandarin. Its palate is slightly fuller, and alongside the `23, it seems softer and rounder, though this is likely due to better maturation rather than a lack of acidity.

Similar impressions can be drawn from Aquarella, the rosé offering from Novus, which features a blend of Moschofilero from Mantinia and Assyrtiko and Syrah from Aigialeia. This wine also benefits from high-altitude conditions, with all the grapes sourced from vineyards at elevations between 600 and 700 metres, showcasing comparable characteristics across the two vintages. The 2023 vintage (7/10) reveals a distinctly tart nose, featuring notes of rose and currant, accompanied by a pronounced acidity and freshness, as well as a shorter finish on the palate. In contrast, the 2024 vintage (7.5/10) presents a sweeter profile with aromas of rose water, crisp apple, and Turkish delight, offering a fuller body and a more homogeneous, lingering finish.

The Optimum 2022 (7.5/10) marks Leonidas Nassiakos`s first attempt at producing a premium Moschofilero that hasn’t been aged in tanks. For this challenging endeavour, he selected an 11.5-hectare vineyard with 50-year-old vines, employing concrete eggs and acacia barrels. This cuvée of just 5,500 bottles does not adhere to the philosophy of “gentle management to preserve the delicacy of the variety,” but instead offers a full, rich, and round wine with subdued oak and sweet aromas of poached pear.

I’m not sure if the winery`s unique red offering, Climax 2022 (7.5/10), will generate even more interest following the remarkable Optimum, but it will undoubtedly pique curiosity due to the varieties used and their origins. To clarify: it comprises Mavrodafni from Aigialeia, Agiorgitiko from Nemea, and Mavrotragano from Mantinia! Yes, you read that correctly, resulting in a medium-bodied wine with intense aromatic notes of cherry and generous acidity and tannins, thus requiring 2-3 years in the bottle.

Certainly, a new venture like this from Novus involves many difficulties and challenges, even for an experienced and highly skilled winemaker. However, the initial samples undeniably confirm Leonidas Nassiakos`s capabilities. While it may still be a bit "tight," it’s only a matter of time before it relaxes, showcases its potential, and establishes its team as a frontrunner—not just in the local league...