Nebbiolo — the restaurant by Giannis Morakis, Christos Flokos and Nikos Tsoudis — may be a little off the beaten path, tucked away in the leafy suburb of Ekali on the site of the historic Narkissos, but anyone willing to make the short journey north will find it well worth the trip. Naturally, its main audience comes from the surrounding neighbourhoods, yet the experience feels every bit as polished as any top restaurant in central Athens.
The space retains a touch of its old-world charm, while designer Stratos Hiotelis has refreshed the décor with warm, contemporary accents. Large windows open up the interior to the outdoors, and the fireplace at the centre of the courtyard lends a welcoming glow. I visited in the evening to get a first taste of Francesco’s new dishes — the atmosphere was beautifully intimate and inviting as the terrace spread out around the fire, though I can easily imagine the space taking on a different, luminous energy in the light of day.
Francesco Granata took over the culinary direction at Nebbiolo during the summer, but both his work and that of the restaurant’s head chef, Vangelis Tzakos, really began to take shape in early autumn. You’d expect the master of Neapolitan pizza to work his usual magic here — and he does, though this time he pays tribute to the Roman school instead, favouring a thinner, crispier base. I tried the Fuoco, with its lively, spicy heat, as well as his wonderfully light Margherita.
Among the starters, the vitello tonnato was beautifully balanced and technically flawless, while the carbonara came with a rich, silky sauce — indulgent and deeply satisfying. But it was the cacio e pepe that truly surprised me: freshly made pasta, perfectly cooked, with a generous hit of black pepper that gave the dish real personality.
For the mains, the prime rib black Angus arrived juicy, tender, and impeccably grilled. And to finish, the showstopper was, of course, the tiramisu — classic, creamy, and so perfectly executed that it alone is reason enough to return.
At Nebbiolo, however, you also come for the wine. Christos Flokos has curated a list with real depth and intention, featuring thoughtful selections that range from hidden gems and beloved labels to fine wines offered at genuinely fair prices.
Info: Thisseos 111, Ekali — Tel. +30 210 6228888
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