A World-Class Matsuhisa, Brimming with Confidence and Mediterranean Character

We’ve covered Matsuhisa Athens several times at FNL, as it continues to be, in my view, the most timeless and refined example of exotic fine dining in the city. Yet, despite its firmly established stature, it never stops evolving — continuously integrating fresh ideas and new elements that keep the experience exciting. In this, our fourth review (the last one published eight years ago), I’ll be focusing primarily on the food, setting aside the restaurant’s enduring strengths: its enchanting location, breathtaking views, impeccable service, and an impressive — albeit pricey — wine list. These remain integral parts of its DNA.
 
Matsuhisa Athens could be said to have two distinct culinary identities — something that sets it apart not only from its fellow outposts, but also from the nearly sixty Nobu locations around the world. The classic Nobu signatures are still firmly in place, and rightly so. These are dishes that have entered the realm of the iconic: globally recognised and beloved, they paved the way for the rise of Nikkei cuisine. Each time I visit, I always make a point of revisiting certain favourites — including the legendary rock shrimp tempura and the Black Cod, whose almost mythical popularity remains, for me, an unsolved mystery.

We’re talking about dishes that have now entered the realm of the classic — globally recognised and loved, they paved the way for the rise of Nikkei cuisine.

In the kitchen, Tony Vratsanos and Thomas Kourakos have long been at the helm — a dynamic culinary duo that continues to raise the bar at Matsuhisa. They’re the ones who kept the kitchen steady even during the restaurant’s more uncertain phases, because, let’s be honest, there have been one or two. Over the past three years, however, the restaurant has consistently operated at an exceptionally high level, and there are several reasons behind this ongoing ascent. First and foremost is the uncompromising quality of the ingredients. The fish and seafood they use are exceptionally fresh and impeccably sourced, while the meats they select rank among the finest available — the very best the market has to offer. 

The second reason is the creative freedom that now defines the kitchen. Beyond Nobu’s iconic dishes, which form the backbone of its identity, Tony Vratsanos and Thomas Kourakos are now free to add their own signature creations. These dishes respect Nobu’s philosophy while also incorporating their personal touch, with hints of Mediterranean finesse and freshness. The result is a kitchen that feels alive and confident, one that isn’t afraid to experiment, evolve, and express itself. In several cases, these new plates stand confidently alongside the Nobu classics — and at times, I’d even say they surpass them in terms of composition.

The result is a kitchen that feels alive and confident, one that isn’t afraid to experiment, evolve, and express itself. In several cases, these new plates stand confidently alongside the Nobu classics — and at times, I’d even say they surpass them in terms of composition.

Among the standout dishes, the ethereal shrimp dumplings made with Koilada prawns are a true revelation. They’re served with a velvety foie gras sauce, caviar, and a tempura-fried prawn head — a dish that strikes a beautiful balance between delicacy and depth of flavour.

The raw salmon with black sesame sauce is elevated by its dressing, which combines earthy complexity with a subtle sweetness, brought together in remarkable harmony.

In contrast, the salmon tataki with stracciatella and lightly roasted cherry tomatoes takes a brighter, more refreshing direction — a bold meeting of Japanese precision and Mediterranean sensibility that works wonderfully. The stracciatella lends a luxurious creaminess, while the roasted tomatoes add acidity and lift.

The toasted bread topped with wagyu tartare, caviar, and truffle is an almost hedonistic dish — rich, refined, and perfectly balanced, the very embodiment of a decadent bite.

The baby spinach salad with grilled king crab, touched lightly with wasabi, is a model of simplicity and precision. Light yet substantial, it proves that restraint can still deliver depth and character.

When I last visited, in the summer, their fresh Greek lobster had been slightly overcooked. This time, however, the flesh was tender and just-set, with a beautifully charred texture from the grill. Vratsanos’s nigiri, meanwhile, remain impeccable, with spot-on temperature and texture.

I’m certainly leaving out several noteworthy dishes, but the point stands. Dessert arrived in the form of a towering fruit salad which, to be honest, didn’t offer much — though the mochi tucked to one side were delightful.

For the full experience, you can choose between the standard or premium omakase menus, though they also offer two bento box options if you`re after something quicker and more affordable.

And if you’ve associated Matsuhisa solely with dinner, it’s time to rethink that. The restaurant now opens for lunch too, offering its entire menu in a distinctive omakase format that proves the kitchen doesn’t need the cloak of night to shine.