In an age where creativity, imagination, and modern techniques are celebrated—and often overvalued (sometimes by me)—and where comfort fine dining "without borders" is becoming a global trend, making a dynamic entry into Greece, Pharaoh, Veritable, and Napul’e each showcase traditional Greek, French, and Italian cuisine, respectively. They prioritise quality and authenticity, captivating diners and filling their tables. These establishments clearly illustrate that the path of tradition, when approached with knowledge and passion, speaks directly to the heart.
However, the commonalities among them go much deeper, particularly on a gastronomic level. Each restaurant offers an exceptional rendition of the national cuisine it represents. In every instance, the chef-patron hails from the same background as the cuisine they craft, having lived and breathed it throughout their life. They possess an intimate knowledge and passion for their culinary heritage, understanding its nuances and cherishing its traditions. As such, they become true ambassadors of their cuisine, skillfully sourcing and highlighting its ingredients, flavours, and—ultimately—the very essence of its soul!
Pharaoh has emerged as a major success over the past two years, creating a trend that many recent openings have followed. It combines the exquisite traditional Greek cuisine of Manolis Papoutsakis with a unique atmosphere, curated music, and natural wines. Today, it is the ultimate trendsetter and a haven for hipsters. However, regardless of this, and irrespective of your style (or mine), who can resist those incredible giants or the exemplary grilled wild greens accompanied by that exceptional manouri cheese, or the delightful rabbit?
Francesco Granata`s Napul’e opened in Vari shortly before the coronavirus pandemic and has become one of the biggest successes in the Athenian restaurant scene. However, for me, its commercial success is not the most important characteristic. It is the authenticity! And this is a word—a feeling—that we have rarely experienced in Greece when talking about Italian cuisine. Its top-notch pizzas, generous, rustic pastas bursting with flavour, and the incredible list of Italian wine gems that we cannot find elsewhere are just a few of the elements that make Napul’e so unique.
Veritable, helmed by Alain Parrodi, represents the culmination of a remarkable chef`s journey who made a significant career in southern France. He first came to Greece about twenty years ago as a transfer from Apostolos Trastelis. Since then, he has undertaken various projects, culminating in the opening of his own restaurant in 2019 in Neo Psychiko. From the very beginning, Veritable established itself as the authentic representative of French bistronomy in Athens, but it has gradually evolved into one of the city`s top restaurants.
While the venue may not be its strongest point and the prices may seem steep (until one appreciates the quality of the ingredients and the flavours of the dishes), French cuisine is not the most popular in Athens. Nevertheless, Veritable justifiably draws in crowds, competes for prestigious accolades, and has earned a reputation among lovers (and connoisseurs) of French gastronomy, thanks to its terrines, glossy and delicious sauces, and dishes like the pigeon en croûte with morels (pictured).
If you haven`t had the chance to visit any of the three, don`t wait any longer—discover the genuine allure of traditional cuisine firsthand… irrespective of its nationality!
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