Simply being tasty is not enough. Restaurants that aspire to serve homemade food and earn the affection of patrons for the long term must accomplish something more complex: they should evoke the comfort of one`s mother`s cooking. This food, in addition to embodying "love", must have top-quality ingredients, along with magical pots and pans. Unfortunately, in Athens, there are not enough restaurants that excel at serving truly outstanding ladera (vegetable dishes cooked in olive oil) and stews, and not every dish at those that do will awaken childhood memories. Nevertheless, many of them are still commendable options for enjoying traditional cuisine.
Kitsoulas
The historic kitchen in Chalandri, which welcomed its first customers in 1946, serves—and offers takeout—exquisite ladéra and stews, delivering the true taste of tradition on every plate. Although the ingredients may not be in season, Kitsoulas bakes two trays of gemista (Greek stuffed vegetables) daily, and they vanish before they have a chance to come out of the oven. From this oven comes the delightful pastitsio with a velvety béchamel. The restaurant is also remowned for its cabbage rolls and lamb fricassée, with the ladera deserving a chapter of their own.
Info: Filikis Etairias 25G, Chalandri, Tel: 2106814798, Open: Tuesday-Sunday, 12:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m., Price: €15-20 per person.
Olympion
About 4 years ago, several dishes at Olympion (photo), in Mets, could have been described as "better than mama`s". However, while it is clear that something—or rather, someone—has changed in the kitchen, the recipes still honour tradition, and most of the flavours remain rich and authentic. The moussaka is made as it did in 1950 Greece, swimming in a sea of oil of "post-war prosperity". Its yuvarlakia and lachanontolmades are served with plenty of avgolemono, while the anchovy is juicy and drenched in sauce. The osso bucco and the beef sofrito are delicious, while its legumes are an ode to indulgence. The ladera are prominently featured, with several daily offerings of okra, peas and more.
Info: Anapafseos 9, Pangrati, Tel: 2109244388, Open: Monday-Saturday, 7:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m., Price: €15-20 per person.
Ipiros
Tucked away among dozens of butcher shops in Varvakeios, and under new ownership for the past 10 months, it has been taken over by Vassilis Akrivos, the creator of Psariston and owner of the traditional taverna Gidi—this establishment remains true to its roots, serving old-school soups and tripe. However, the menu has been enriched with comforting dishes reminiscent of the past. Daily specials include Spetzofai made with rustic sausages in a rich tomato sauce with peppers and potatoes, braised beef served with thick macaroni, moussaka, and gemista, all beautifully displayed in the window and generously served on the plates.
Info: Filopimenos 4, Varvakeios, Tel: 2103240773, Open: Monday-Saturday, 6:30 a.m. – 6:30 p.m., Price: €15-20 per person.
Oikonomou
Oikonomou has been operating as a kitchen since 1930, and about two years ago, it changed ownership for the second time, passing into the hands of businessman Philip Tsagridis. For nearly 30 years, its cook, Mrs. Garyfallia, has remained dedicated to her role, preparing ladera with the same care and love, including dishes such as okra, cabbage rolls, rooster braised with thick macaroni, rabbit stew, lamb fricassée, and pork with leeks and celery. The menu also features honeyed legumes, such as gigantes beans. Among the advantages of this FNL-starred kitchen is its excellent wine list!
Info: Kydantidon 32, Tel: 2103467555, Open: Daily, 1:00 p.m. – 12:00 a.m., Price: €20-35 per person.
Nostimies tis Mairis
Yuvarlakia, beef giouvetsi, moussaka, papoutsakia and pastitsio, spanakorizo and chickpeas—made with fresh, high-quality ingredients—are available daily on the menu at "Nostimies tis Mairis". This restaurant has built its reputation on its lachanontolmades (cabbage rolls), which are its most famous dish.
Info: Hydras 2-4, Athens, Tel: 2108213136, Open: Daily, 11:00 a.m. – 2:00 a.m., Price: €20-25 per person.
Martinis
Martini in Ano Patisia prepares 40 dishes daily and serves approximately 700 portions. From the oven come the moussaka and pastitsio, while from the pot come fricassee egg lemon and beef stew. An excellent choice here is the cabbage dolmades, but also dishes that remind of a village such as roast goat with potatoes, rooster in wine with spaghetti and giouvetsi.
Info. Patision 298, Ano Patisia, Tel 2102111063, open: daily 11:00 pm-12:00am, price: 12-25 euro per person
Pharaoh
Pharaoh, now, could not be missing from the list since it serves a variety of stews with authentic traditional flavours. However, the space, the wine cellar, the concept in general and, of course, the prices differentiate it from all the others. Beyond its quality and unique atmosphere, Pharaoh has played a significant role in revitalising traditional cuisine in Athens. Over the years, I`ve enjoyed amazing gigantes in the casserole, chestnut stew, epic leeks with celery, and to-die-for lachanontolmades.
Info: Pharaoh, Solomou 54, Exarchia, Tel: 2103808412, Open: Monday-Thursday 6:00 p.m. – 2:00 a.m., Friday and Saturday 1:30 p.m. – 2:00 a.m., Price: €50-70 per person.