It was time for UVA Wines` annual presentation, and they, in their usual fashion, chose not a tiny selection of labels from many producers in their impressive portfolio but an in-depth introduction to a few of them. So this year, the... programme included works by Von Winning, Nals Margreid and Castello dei Rampolla (pictured) from Plaltz, Alto Adige and Tuscany, respectively.
Weingut von Winning has been active in the warm (for Germany!) Pfaltz region since 1849, having pioneered the creation of the VDP quality producers` association. Based in Diedesheim, it offers an extensive range of wines from great vineyards, with its excellent Riesling wines monopolizing the occasion.
The Diedesheimer Riesling 2022 (8/10) is not the winery`s introductory label, but it does offer a wonderful - and exceptionally low-priced - overture to the von Wiiting range. Explosive in its pear and teal aromas, it spices up its intense acidity with a wise dose of 7.9g/lt of sugar in a light, floral, and pure whole that will peak in 5 years.
The Haardter Herrenletten Erste Lage Riesling 2022 (8.5/10) comes from the 1er Cru vineyard of the village of Haardt and is also vinified in large barrels. More shy aromatically and frighteningly austere, it is currently unapproachable and razor-sharp. But this dry, mineral-laden white will prove magnificent in 10 years, guaranteed by its excellent palate length.
The initials GG denote the highest expression of dry German Riesling, and the Pechstein Riesling GG 2022 explains why. Some - including me - may find the new barrel too much, but this feast of incense, tobacco and petrol is beyond criticism in fruit, finish and (15-year) ageing potential.
Alto Adige has the best wine cooperatives in the world; one is undoubtedly Nals Mardreid. The two words of the name come from the two wineries that merged, bringing under one roof 138 members and 1600 acres of beautiful vineyards. Its impressive performance has earned it countless accolades, not without reason, as gem wines are found in all of its lines.
Stein Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (8/10), Sun Moscato Giallo (8/10) and Hill Pinot Grigio 2023 (8/10) come from an altitude of 250-350m, cost under 14€ and surprise with their purity and performance. Fans of the full-bodied green pepper Sauvignon will be charmed by the freshness of the former; the Sun will make you bet you have a grape rose that breaks in your mouth, while the structure of the Pinot Grigio will lead in 3-5 years to thrills inversely proportional to its ...humility.
The incredible Mantele Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (8.5/10) and Penon Pinot Bianco 2023 (8.5/10) come from higher altitudes and are vinified in 3000lt barrels. Those who have tasted barrel-aged New Zealand cousins will have a (less sophisticated) idea of the complex Mantele. At the same time, the stunning Penon puts honeyed exoticism alongside the chamomile and hawthorn, sacrificing easy impressions in favour of the wine`s essence, which will, however, be revealed in 5-8 years!
However, the winery from NE Italy impresses equally with its fruity reds. Sand 2022 (8/10) comes from vineyards near fairytale Bolzano, and with its explosive aroma of hibiscus and fresh blackberry hides, it takes 7 months to age in 4-ton barrels. It cannot hide the bitterly juicy charm of the earthy Langrein variety. The essence doesn`t change in the Yura Riserva Pinot Noir 2021 ( 8.5/10) as the cold terroir brightens the blackcurrant and green tea, except that this "love it or hate it" varietal sample has a genuinely unique sweet and sour balance that I`m sure you`ve never tried before!
The Rambolla family has owned their precious land in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone since the mid-18th century. Still, Castello dei Rampolla `s reputation began to build in 1975 when the first wine was released. One of the pioneers of Cabernet Sauvignon cultivation in Chianti and the application of biodynamic practices, the boutique winery offers a range that counts several labels but a meagre overall production.
Castello dei Rampolla shows its intentions with the classic Chianti Classico 2020 label (8.5/10), a ...stubborn Docg wine rich in acidity. However, some of this severity is "erased" by the expressive bouquet of blackcurrant, minerals, flowers, spices, and incredible tannins. The Sammarco 2019 (8.5/10), the winery`s most famous cuvee, also offers a similar profile. Sammarco is more ...Chianti and less Cabernet Sauvignon and tastes similar while having a similar 10-year potential.
The ultra-premium D` Alceo 2018 (9/10), on the other hand, offers different aromas and flavours, being sweeter and fuller. Don`t imagine, of course, that despite the undigested barrel, this single vineyard label is reminiscent of a New World wine, as the acidity and freshness are thunderously present while the bouquet of cedar, tea, black fruit and snuff does the same.
UVA Premium Wines imports all the producers in this article (211 0124293).