Suma: A Gastrobar on the Pedestrian Street of Kalamiotou

If you ever find yourself in a situation where there’s no consensus on whether to go for drinks or food, I suggest you jot down the address of Suma in your agenda. This is the name that Dimitris Kostopoulos and Seirios Komihilis, the chef-owners of the Chalandri-based Mistikos Kipos, chose for the gastro-bar they opened at the beginning of last month in the ever-changing scene of Kalamiotou Street. The name they selected is not related to the Samos distillate of grape pomace (moschato) or to the Chios souma (a distillate of dried figs), nor to the Greek phrase "kane mas thn suma," which translates to "make us the bill." For the two chefs, the term written in Latin refers to the concepts of wholeness, togetherness, and, consequently, the sharing of food and companionship. 

The cuisine they offer is Mediterranean, with some delightful twists. I would say it also looks towards the Near East, as it has a somewhat Levantine direction. The fact that they describe their venture as a gastrobar stems from the ability to choose the space for a cocktail or some wine (the menu features labels from both Greek and international vineyards), while enjoying bites and listening to music mixes from vinyl records, played at the right volume and featuring different DJs each day.


What dishes can one find on their small menu? Many and varied, as their intention is to change the just nine dishes each month, depending on market availability and the changing seasons. On the day I visited, among the dishes I tried, I particularly enjoyed a saganaki with shrimp fried in a pork skin crust, slightly spicy due to the harissa, which added a unique intensity to the feta. I also had tortellini with shrimp, spinach, coconut cream, guanciale, and caviar, and finally, a well-cooked lamb wrapped in vine leaves with Florina peppers, served with couscous, zucchini, cauliflower, and aromatic yogurt. Some in the group ordered bao with pulled Iberico pork, pico de gallo, and guacamole, which they praised highly. I wasn`t able to try that dish, so I don`t have an opinion on it. 

It is likely that, when you visit, the menu will not feature the same dishes. I mentioned them simply to convey the essence of the cuisine. However, you should definitely try the Suma Negroni (a mixture of Greek and Italian vermouth, herbal gin, and Italian bitters), which is accompanied by a slice of sun-dried tomato (prepared by the kitchen) and oregano. I found it to be truly interesting. 

 Info: Kalamiotou 9, Athens, τηλ. 211 0080247. Open: Tuesday-Friday 18.00pm-00.00am Saturday & Sunday: 14.00pm-00.00am