The Panagiotidis family winery in Kerasia, Michaniona, boasts nearly two and a half decades of history. With a 15-acre vineyard as its source, it offers a small selection of wines based on varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Assyrtiko and Xinomavro. The addition of Antonis Panagiotidis to the winery`s team has led to the creation of some trendier labels, including the Smoky Donkey, a cuvée of 1,500 bottles made exclusively from Xinomavro.
As one can understand, the first part of its name does not hide the "smoky" intentions of the producer, just as the 11.5% on the label does not hide the low alcohol content. Add to this an unusually watery ruby colour with subtle brick-red highlights, and everything seems set for a hit-or-miss outcome. Although I am a fan of light-bodied, low-alcohol reds, I knew that Smoky Donkey would need to perform exceptionally to achieve a hit. Unfortunately, the miss prevailed on all levels.
The lack of concentration may not have been apparent visually, but it was even more pronounced on the nose, offering low-intensity earthy aromas complemented by notes of sage, red fruits, sweet spices and smoked ham. Yes, I know, it sounds like a lot, but the truth is that each scent lingered only for a few seconds before fading away, resulting in the wine smelling predominantly of alcohol after it was poured into the glass.
The scarcity of fruit allows the tannic astringency to dominate the tasting experience, with this aggressiveness further heightened by pronounced acidity. While these elements could be appealing in a different context, for this wine to truly shine, it would need to be rich in abundant fruit.
Unfortunately, that is not the case, which means large glasses and high temperatures are out of the question. The Stolzle Revolution Red glass and a serving temperature of 12-14ºC do what they can to help. A "dietary" ratatouille wouldn`t mask the weak flavour of clove and pepper, while the charcuterie pizza sets the upper limit for pairings.
I don`t believe I have encountered any other labels from the Panagiotidis estate, but this Xinomavro is neither Funky nor Funny, as its producer might hope. Even considering its low price of €9.50, it still falls short.
Rating: 5 / 10.