Nearly three years after a somewhat hesitant opening, and following a prolonged period of instability, One&Only Aesthesis appears finally to have found its rhythm. It now offers guests a genuine sense of a summer escape.
Spread across a 21-hectare beachfront estate, with 2.2 kilometres of coastline, the resort has been designed so that its buildings sit naturally within the landscape. Fragrant gardens, abundant with flowers and Mediterranean planting, heighten the feeling of being in the countryside, particularly when the wind carries away the inevitable traffic noise from the coastal avenue.
Its 127 rooms, suites, bungalows and villas provide a varied range of accommodation, catering to different requirements as well as a broad spectrum of price points, all firmly at the upper end. One&Only Aesthesis is, after all, an ultra-luxury resort aimed at an affluent clientele.
During our two-night stay, we were accommodated in a beautiful seafront bungalow with a private pool and steps leading directly down to the sea.
Every inch of its 41 square metres had been put to excellent use. There was a king-size bed, a spacious bathroom with a walk-in shower and a freestanding bath beside a large window overlooking the sea, a walk-in wardrobe and a compact sitting area.
Outside, an expansive terrace offered two separate seating areas, one arranged around an outdoor fireplace, as well as sun loungers, sofas and a generous lounge area with more than enough room for us to entertain friends comfortably.
Most impressive of all, however, was the extraordinary range of in-room amenities, the like of which I have never encountered elsewhere in Greece. Alongside the more familiar provisions, including an espresso machine, a minibar stocked with an extensive selection of drinks, a hairdryer, a safe, hats, a beach bag and excellent-quality shampoo, body lotions and other toiletries, there was an entire range of sun-care products for the face, body and hair.
There was also after-sun lotion, a soothing stick for insect bites, dozens of sachets of bath salts, a long-handled loofah and a grooming kit containing tweezers, a nail file and nail clippers. Shaving foam, mouthwash, spectacle-cleaning spray and even a hand fan completed an unusually comprehensive collection.
At turndown, the thoughtful details continued. On our first evening, we found an excellent sleep mask waiting for each of us, while on the second there was a bookmark for our books and a luggage tag.
Particular credit must also go to the hotel’s pastry chef. Every sweet treat left in our room, whether as part of the welcome or during turndown, was better than the last. The highlight was one of the finest cherry clafoutis we have ever tasted, along with some dangerously moreish salted-caramel chocolates.
Our experience at the Guerlain Spa was equally impressive. The facilities are superb, and the treatment rooms are among the most beautiful I have seen. They feel almost like fully fledged hotel rooms in their own right. There is also a large pool and an extensive selection of Guerlain products, particularly fragrances.
The perfume offering is especially remarkable. Among the bottles on display were rare and collectible fragrances that can be extremely difficult to find, even in Guerlain boutiques around the world or online.
The shared pool is equally impressive, set directly beside the sandy beach and surrounded by parasols and sun loungers. There are also more secluded areas for guests who prefer to enjoy the sun and sea with a greater degree of privacy. Breakfast is served until 11am at Ora by Ettore Botrini, whose tables overlook the pool.
One&Only Aesthesis currently has three restaurants: Ora by Ettore Botrini, which holds one FNL star; Manko, a lively restaurant, bar and beach club serving Peruvian cuisine with Nikkei influences; and Sumosan, a seasonal Japanese fusion pop-up. I understand that another restaurant is due to open soon, exclusively for hotel guests, in a location above the adults-only beach. We visited two of the three and thoroughly enjoyed both experiences.
With its superb sunset views, Sumosan offers a very good menu of contemporary Japanese dishes, all executed with confidence and precision. Everything we tried was accomplished and delicious, whether paired with one of the house cocktails or a bottle from the well-chosen wine list.
The raw dishes struck the right balance between acidity, sweetness and heat, while the rolls were neatly constructed, with an excellent ratio of rice to fish. Personally, I would return for the chicken sando alone. Served with potato wedges and a flavourful sauce, it is an excellent comfort-food choice for anyone who, like me, has a weakness for indulgent treats.
Ora by Ettore Botrini offers a more distinctly Greek style of cooking, always with the chef’s characteristic twist, while also serving as the resort’s main all-day restaurant. I would strongly recommend the tzatziki, which contains barely any garlic but is still delicious, and the taramosalata, both served with warm pitta bread. The bourdeto, however, was a genuine revelation.
As I wrote in my Instagram post:
“When it comes to food, I am drawn to clean flavours and generally simple dishes. Reinvented versions of classic recipes, whether Greek or otherwise, often irritate me because, in my experience so far, they are usually unnecessary and rarely successful.
Today at @orabyettorebotrini, however, I realised that when a chef is truly talented, they can create a dish that looks nothing like the original and yet, from the very first mouthful, brings it vividly back to both the palate and the heart.
That is precisely what Ettore Botrini achieves with his interpretation of the Corfiot classic bourdeto. Built around thin slices of sea bass, samphire, rouille mayonnaise and a bourdeto sauce, it immediately reminded me of my favourite version, the one served at Bellos in Benitses, even though visually it looked far closer to something one might encounter at Nobu.
It was, in other words, a small gastronomic miracle. For sceptics like me, it is a reason to keep tasting, to remain open-minded and, occasionally, to take a leap of faith...”
Our two days passed all too quickly. We genuinely felt as though we were far from Athens, and we left relaxed, recharged and refreshed. The truth is that we did not come close to making use of everything the resort has to offer. We never made it to the gym, swam at the adults-only beach, joined any of the many workshops, played tennis or padel, or explored the gardens by bicycle.
We also missed the opening of Terrazza Campari, which has since launched on the resort’s rooftop. With its beautifully designed setting, cocktails, music and people-watching, it has all the makings of one of the area’s most popular new addresses.
To conclude, and because I always want to be as objective and honest as possible, I should mention one aspect of an otherwise excellent experience that I would not necessarily describe as negative, but certainly found rather puzzling. In our bungalow, the large and beautifully arranged outdoor space received no shade at any point during the day, apparently because of its orientation. The pergola was entirely open, which I imagine could also prove problematic in wet weather, particularly as the resort operates throughout the year. Inside, there was only a small sofa that could accommodate two people rather snugly. This meant that anyone wishing to escape either the sun or the rain had nowhere particularly comfortable to sit. I am not sure why the pergolas were designed as decorative rather than truly functional features, but it is something the hotel would do well to address. We are accustomed to the intensity of the Greek sun and still found it difficult at times, so guests who are less used to such conditions may struggle even more.
That said, we would return at the first opportunity because we had a wonderful time. For anyone whose budget allows it, and who wants the feeling of a proper holiday without undertaking a longer journey, One&Only Aesthesis deserves a place on the list. Finally, after congratulating the entire One&Only Aesthesis team on the impeccable service, I would also like to thank Resort Manager George Brilakis personally for his exceptional hospitality. We had an absolute blast.