On our recent trip to Tuscany, we chose to stay in Cortona, a medieval hill town in the province of Arezzo.
We looked at quite a few hotels before making our decision and, to be completely honest, what initially drew me to Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa was how appealing it looked in the photographs, particularly in relation to the price. Choosing a hotel this way can often be something of a gamble, but we decided to take the risk and, as it turned out, it paid off extremely well.
Arriving in Cortona, around an hour and a half by car from Florence Airport, we made our way through the town’s narrow cobbled streets, following the exceptionally detailed directions the hotel had sent us, complete with a video showing the route.
Eventually, we reached the top of the hill, where Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa is located. As its name suggests, the hotel occupies a 14th-century former monastery, beautifully restored with considerable sensitivity to the history and character of the building.
Its 36 rooms and suites are decorated in soft shades of white and beige and feel comfortable even in the smaller categories, with beautifully finished bathrooms and, most importantly, enchanting views over the rooftops of Cortona stretching out beneath the windows and terraces, framed by a sky that seems to change colour throughout the day.
Amenities include bathroom products, bathrobes, a safe, streaming services such as Netflix, a work desk, television, telephone, satellite channels, radio, air conditioning, a hairdryer and air-purifying devices.
There is something truly special about waking in the morning, drawing back the curtains and being greeted by that view. The sunset is just as memorable, bathing everything in shades of orange and gold.
Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa also has beautifully maintained public spaces, including the internal courtyard outside its two restaurants, with a statue of a saint presiding at the far end, and a spacious terrace with a swimming pool and comfortable loungers.
The Bagni di Bacco Spa is equally impressive. Its name translates as the “Baths of Bacchus”, and it has been created in the part of the building that once housed a cistern, or water reservoir.
Guests can relax in the large heated pool or choose from a range of facial and body treatments.
I have left the restaurants until last because, as we all know, gastronomy is such an integral part of Italian culture that excellent places to eat can be found almost everywhere.
At Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa, the more informal Osteria del Santo serves traditional Tuscan dishes by chef Michele Ricci. From the dinner menu, we tried cacio e pepe potato croquettes, pasta with Chianina beef ragù and Parmigiano Reggiano fondue, and meatballs with mashed potato. Everything was delicious.
Breakfast is also served in the same restaurant, with a particularly well-executed bakery selection.
The true heart of Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa, however, is its fine-dining restaurant, Gli Affreschi. It takes its name from the centuries-old frescoes that adorn the walls, some of which are believed to depict scenes from the Battle of Montaperti in 1260 and have been painstakingly restored.
In this beautiful, history-filled setting, chef Michele Ricci creates a menu built around some of the finest produce from the region, handled with imagination and considerable technical skill. His aim is to show how tradition can evolve into dishes that strike an elegant balance between classic and contemporary, such as his signature chicken liver pâté refreshed with Cortona vermouth and low-temperature roe deer enlivened by marinated turnips.
The gastronomic experience is completed by the hotel’s wine cellar, with more than 300 labels, including a strong selection from the region. The list was recently awarded Two Stars by The World of Fine Wine.
Our overall experience at Monastero di Cortona Hotel & Spa was excellent. We had a wonderful stay, and the hotel also works particularly well as a base for exploring the surrounding area by car.
The covered parking is a real advantage too, especially in Cortona, where the narrow streets make parking difficult even for a scooter.
And, of course, value for money is an important consideration too. At the time of our stay, rates started at €426 including breakfast for the 17 sq m Classic Room and rose to €1,174 for the largest 55 sq m suite.