Iliopetra: Great Expectations, Low Performance

Few restaurants in Thessaloniki are as popular and beloved among the city`s food enthusiasts as Iliopetra. Ask anyone, and they will speak highly of this establishment, praising the courteous and remarkably humble chef and owner, George Zanakis, who honed his culinary skills at the renowned Mourga alongside Giannis Loukakis. Located on the somewhat secluded Eschilou Street, away from the city center, Iliopetra occupies a small space that exudes personality. It is well-appointed, impeccably clean, and radiates warmth alongside a charming ambiance that creates a relaxing atmosphere. The walls are adorned with tasteful black-and-white photographs, adding to its aesthetic appeal. The service, particularly from the lady who attended our table, was outstanding. She seemed to know the menu inside and out, providing quick, friendly, and efficient service. When she suggested that the chef choose a selection of dishes for our table, we agreed without hesitation. We only added the taramosalata with crab, along with a hünkar, and chose a wine. Having heard rave reviews about Iliopetra, I was eager to dive into the menu, confident that we would enjoy a fantastic meal. However, it ultimately became clear that my expectations were set too high, as the reality fell short.

The menu at Iliopetra, created by George Zanakis, embodies a bistronomic essence. While it draws inspiration from the "school" of gastro-tavernas and is influenced by the eclectic culinary style of Mourga, it also takes bold risks with more adventurous specialties that combine Greek cuisine with exotic elements. Zanakis`s intentions are genuine, and many of his ideas are quite interesting. However, the dishes we tried that evening, while aiming to impress, ultimately resulted in a confusing array of flavours that failed to harmonise. Unfortunately, they were marred by numerous technical missteps that undermined the overall taste. It pains me to say this, but the shortcomings seemed to compound one after another. The blend of tradition and innovation is an exceptionally challenging endeavour, and when the technique falters, the entire structure of the gastrotaverna—built, among other things, on a more spontaneous culinary approach that seems to disregard established rules—can begin to collapse. Even now, I find myself wondering what went so wrong that evening at Iliopetra, as I refuse to believe that this reflects the restaurant`s enduring quality.

The sushi made from dolmadakia, served with seabass cut into carpaccio, is visually stunning and offers an interesting flavour profile, though it lacks the intensity and acidity that would make it truly standout. On the other hand, the crab meat is somewhat overshadowed by a generous amount of flavourful taramosalata, which, while delicious, is so rustic and heavy that it completely masks the delicate crab. Another example of a lack of finesse that could undermine the culinary identity of Iliopetra was the fried celeriac served with green beans, hummus, and cashews. If this dish had been executed flawlessly and precisely balanced, it could easily have been served at a restaurant like Septime. While Zanakis`s ideas showcase a chef with the imagination to create wonders, the celeriac croquettes lacked character, arriving with a greasy crust and a watery interior. On the other hand, the green beans were excellent, the hummus was merely decent, and the grated cashews did provide a pleasant texture to the overall dish without enhancing its flavour. Similarly, the potato pancake with exquisite lakerda, fresh greens, sobrasada, and mango sauce did not meet my expectations. The sauce was overly sweet and did not harmonsze with either the lakerda or the sobrasada. The kitchen`s strengths shone through in the perfectly grilled tuna, which paired beautifully with spinach and shimeji mushrooms, and could have been even more remarkable had the overcooked sea bream not been so heavily salted. Additionally, in the lace-like dumplings served with delicate consommé, the goat filling was quite tough. In the hünkar dish, the eggplant cream was smooth and subtly flavoured, but the meat was coarse—it could have been more tender with better cooking. We concluded our meal with a galaktoboureko that was a sheer disappointment.

As we`ve mentioned before, let me reiterate: a restaurant review often reflects the experience of a particular evening rather than the overall quality of the establishment over time. Therefore, this specific review, which I admit I wrote with a heavy heart, does not aim to undermine either the value of Iliopetra or the undeniable talent of George Zanakis. Iliopetra is not lacking in ideas, creativity, or the courage to experiment with innovative recipes while freely infusing traditional Greek cuisine with more exotic flavours. The primary issue I identified during my visit was a noticeable lack of technique and care in execution, which does not align with the creative vision of its chef. Cooking requires meticulous attention and dedication to every detail, and when this attention is lacking, even the best intentions can be undermined. In the case of Iliopetra, I have no doubt that these intentions are indeed present.