I have often expressed my admiration for the concentration and power of the Aivalis winery`s wines, qualities that come from the low yields of the vineyards it chooses to vinify and its unbridled exuberance. On the other hand, I have found that the above is only about his Nemees since all his other cuvees need to stand up to Agiorgitiko circumstances.
Deux Dieux gave me a chance to see which of the above is true. According to the producer, it is a blend of the divine, Syrah and Agiorgitiko varieties aged for 25 full months in barrels from the Allier forest.
The producer`s red colour palette includes only "dark purple," and the aromatic bouquet includes only "ripe black fruit, liquorice and fresh vanilla." Deux Dieux respects tradition and the winemaker`s obsession with the top grape, an obsession expressed in impressive concentration flavoured with a charming hint of nettle.
The 15 alcoholic points give this red blend its full-bodied character, with this burly presence accentuated by the intense sweetness of the fruit. The balance the wine exhibits on the mid-palate foreshadows that this supercar will "write" a remarkable, meaty round on the Nemean circuit. But things don`t turn out well at the end, as the finish becomes unbearably tannic, bitter and woody. Of course, one can argue that the wine is still very young and that a decade will transform it from Deux Dieux to Nectar Dieux. Still, the alcoholic flavour and the relatively short finish personally don`t convince me of its vin de garde credentials.
The Riedel Vinum Syrah and the high 18-20oC do their best to compensate for the lost traction, but if one is to keep driving, traction control will have to be enhanced with fatty cuts or an exuberant eggplant dish.
Strange as it may seem, after all of the above, I believe that Deux Dieux is worth the 30€ price tag, as the producer`s (costly) choices are reflected in the glass with impressive concentration and blockbuster presence. On the other hand, the fact that the phrase "less is more" is anathema to the Aivali family leaves its negative imprint, preventing Deux Dieux from reaching the divine levels dreamed of by its creators...
Rating: 7/10.
Deux Dieux by Aivali Winery is available from House of Wine